New Mexico Route 66 - Tucumcari

TUCUMCARI, NEW MEXICO. A classic Pontiac parked at the Blue Swallow Motel. Just when did this guy check in?

New Mexico Route 66 - Tucumcari

TUCUMCARI, NEW MEXICO. One of the units at the Blue Swallow Motel was recently repainted, and now has a 1940's era tourist court look to it.

New Mexico Route 66 - Tucumcari

TUCUMCARI, NEW MEXICO. The ultimate in Route 66 neon, at the Blue Swallow Motel. New owners just recently returned the sign to its original colors.

New Mexico Route 66 - Tucumcari

TUCUMCARI, NEW MEXICO. The simple and elegant neon of the Apache Motel.

New Mexico Route 66 - Tucumcari

TUCUMCARI, NEW MEXICO. The Lasso Motel on Route 66 is also just a neon sign and a memory.

New Mexico Route 66 - Tucumcari

TUCUMCARI, NEW MEXICO. Tucumcari Tonight! So said the billboards along old Route 66, advertising the town's abundance of motels and motel rooms. 66 travelers were tempted with a good night's sleep about one day's drive away to both the east and west, all the way up to the city limits. Some of those billboards remain today, but they are pointed at the interstate. The Pony Soldier Motel once figured in the local room supply, but now only the sign remains.

New Mexico Route 66 - San Jon

SAN JON, NEW MEXICO. The Western Motel on Route 66, with cabins (and rust) that date back to the 1930's. According to Jack Rittenhouse, San Jon in the 1940's was "still a center where cowboys can come for Saturday night relaxation." The town today may be a little too quiet for cowpokes letting off steam.

New Mexico Route 66 - San Jon

SAN JON, NEW MEXICO. An overgrown auto repair shop on Route 66. The tree blocking the main garage entrance has probably been growing since the arrival of the interstate that bypassed the town.

New Mexico Route 66

The first buttes of a Route 66 trip appear almost immediately upon entering New Mexico. The eastern portion of the state is quite remote, and needless to say, I had the old road pretty much to myself.

Texas Route 66

The Road to Glenrio, Sepia.

Texas Route 66 - Glenrio

GLENRIO, TEXAS. The old diner in Glenrio, which probably specialized in Mexican cuisine as a little painted sombrero can be seen on top if you look closely. It is guarded by a (probably huge) dog that one never actually sees. This was my third stop in this 66 ghost town, where the only sounds ever heard are the Texas winds and that damn dog barking.

Texas Route 66 - Glenrio

GLENRIO, TEXAS. The Texas Longhorn Motel, Cafe and Service Station, referred to by modern day 66ers as the "First and Last Motel in Texas" because of its signature, if decaying, sign. This run down portion of the complex was once the cafe, and the old motel section is not faring much better, left to the weeds out back. It's hard to believe that this ghost town was once a busy 66 thoroughfare, but Homer Ehresman and his family ran a successful business here in the 1950's and 60's. In the 1970's, the new interstate killed the business and Glenrio, so much so that Route 66 has been reduced to dirt roads leading into and out of town. It is most easily accessed by the mysterious sounding Exit 0 on I-40, for those of us traveling in little rental cars.

Texas Route 66 - Glenrio

GLENRIO, TEXAS. From old postcards, we know that this was the cafe portion of the First Motel/Last Motel complex. A chair remains out front for the ghost of the final chef that worked there, still on his last ever cigarette break.

Texas Route 66 - Glenrio

GLENRIO, TEXAS. The First Motel/Last Motel in Texas, depending on your direction. That's what the sign used to read, anyway.

Texas Route 66 - ???

What will we find at the mysterious Exit 0 in Texas?

Texas Route 66 - Adrian

ADRIAN, TEXAS. Signs for cold beer and a modern interstate tempt drivers on old Route 66 in Adrian. Don't be fooled - stay on the two-lane!

Texas Route 66 - Adrian

ADRIAN, TEXAS. A cafe sign plenty tall enough to pull diners off a two-lane highway.

Texas Route 66 - Adrian

Fran Houser, 2010

ADRIAN, TEXAS. Let's not forget Fran Houser, former owner of the MidPoint Cafe, who always had time for a Route 66 visitor even though she was the busiest person in the room. Fran had a real business to run, an operating restaurant that also happened to be a Route 66 landmark, but she was also a top Route 66 ambassador and personality. I understand that Fran appears in the movie "Cars" as Flo, a 1950's auto (with tail fins) that owns Flo's V-8 Cafe in Radiator Springs. (To appear in the movie "Cars" is the ultimate tribute for a Route 66er.) Fran has retired from the restaurant business but not from Route 66, having stayed in town to open a gift shop called Sunflower Station, which is located in the old gas station next to the MidPoint. This is a shot of Fran (with my lunch) from 2010.

Texas Route 66 - Adrian

The MidPoint Cafe was open! "May I see the Ugly Crust pie menu, please?"

The MidPoint Cafe, still a classic 1950's diner.

Dennis Purschwitz, new owner of the MidPoint Cafe

The MidPoint Cafe in black and white, from 2010.

ADRIAN, TEXAS. The MidPoint Cafe changed ownership in 2011, when Fran Houser decided to retire from the restaurant business, but new owner Dennis Purschwitz was not hard to find when I stopped in for lunch. He was holding court at a table where the customers all had British accents, something that might be unusual for Texas had we not been on Route 66. That group of English 66ers left the cafe with a host of 66 recommendations for the road ahead, thanks to the hospitality of Mr. Purschwitz. Dennis, his wife Donna, and their daughter Danielle made the move from their Tennessee home to run this Panhandle business, and they enthusiastically understand just how classic a 66 site the MidPoint has become. Good luck, folks!

Texas Route 66 - Adrian

ADRIAN, TEXAS. Halfway! This 66er had previously traveled the entire length of Route 66, from Chicago to L.A., several times, but never accomplished the journey all in one shot. That was my goal for this 2012 trip, so the halfway point had some meaning for me this time. I walked over to the midpoint sign, was thankful I was not sitting at a desk somewhere, looked out over miles and miles of Texas all around me, then went inside the MidPoint Cafe for some pie!